5 /5 Henry: What makes a good restaurant?
Clearly food will feature somewhere on your list and in the case of The Waterside this takes the form of classic French cooking. Nothing is “deconstructed” or designed to surprise. You know exactly what you’re getting from the menu and if you’ve visited previously you probably even know what you’re going to order before you arrive. Nothing is intended to shock.
Far too many restaurants at all levels feature a talented kitchen team let down by their front of house. From the moment you arrive here everyone knows what they are doing and wants to make your visit as enjoyable as they possibly can. They’re not trying to trip you up, you don’t have to be fluent in gastronomy or know anything about malolactic fermentation. The sommelier is there to help, not to test. No one is judging you although I’d be lying if said we didn’t people watch our fellow diners a little.
You are family when dining at The Waterside, it’s not in any way stuffy or starched. That’s not to suggest service is casual, seamless would be my best description with teams assembling when required to reveal your next course before melting away again to leave you to your conversation. The Waterside is a happy place.
My memory of the venue is that it’s a bit dated, the phrase “Chinese restaurant” was used as we drove there but things have quietly evolved. It’s actually quite smart these days. The bathrooms are modern and fresh, the soft furnishings crisp and comforting with a nod to the history of the venue. Let us not forget this is an institution woven into the fabric of British restaurant history.
