5 /5 Taste Notes by Ali: Sumac feels like one of those places the city accidentally gatekeeps, and not just from Londoners at large, but from the Iranian community itself. It is, quite simply, far better than its modest profile suggests. Exceptional food, warm service, and an atmosphere that gets the fundamentals right. But let me start with the food, because that is where Sumac quietly excels.
We began with a trio of classic Persian starters: kashke bademjan, mirza ghasemi, and olivieh (Iranian take on Russian salad). The flavours were remarkably well-balanced. In the kashke bademjan, the eggplant was neither overly tangy nor muted; the core ingredient held its presence without being overshadowed by seasoning or the kashk. The mirza ghasemi and olivieh were confidently executed, each tasting like a faithful, well made version of the dishes every Iranian expects to recognise.
And then came the surprise: freshly baked “pistachio naan" from Sumac’s in-house oven. You heard that right, it might sound experimental but tastes like something that should have always existed. Soft, warm, delicately enriched, likely with butter or ghe and layered with pistachio in a way that makes it genuinely irresistible. It is, without hesitation, the item I would insist every guest orders even if you do not order any starters.
For the mains, we opted for an assortment of kebabs, including kabab torsh. Anyone familiar with this dish knows it is a deeply regional speciality from the northern province of Gilan—one of those flavours that is almost impossible to replicate outside Iran. I have tried many versions over the years, and none carried the depth or authenticity I remembered. Until Sumac. Their kabab torsh is shockingly close to the real thing. Whether the head chef hails from the north or simply understands the technique with uncommon precision, the result speaks for itself. The rest of the kebabs were equally well judged: juicy inside, properly charred outside, and seasoned with confidence rather than hesitation.
There was, however, one service misstep. When the mains arrived, our "Mix Grill for 2 people" came incomplete, missing the joojeh (chicken) skewer. It took nearly ten minutes for it to appear, a frustrating delay when everyone else’s plates were already full. On a busy Friday night with a packed dining room, this felt more like an oversight than a reflection of the staff’s overall attentiveness, but it is worth noting. It cost a star on service, though not on the overall rating, because everything else, from the pacing to the warmth of the staff, remained consistently high.
We ended the evening with Persian tea and zulbia bamieh, the classic syrup-soaked sweets that make every meal feel properly finished.
If you love authentic Persian cuisine—especially if you are a kabab torsh devotee—Sumac is worth the journey no matter where in London you are coming from.
