5 /5 Helga Leith: An Evening at Leicester Square Kitchen
Radisson Blu Leicester Square HotelDecember 29, 2025
Leicester Square Kitchen occupies that rare space where theatrical location meets genuine culinary confidence. Nestled within the Radisson Blu, this dining room eschews the usual West End tourist trap mediocrity for something considerably more sophisticated.
The interior strikes an immediate chord—a dramatic statement wall of charcoal brick punctuated by scattered lighter tiles, creating an effect reminiscent of stars against a night sky. It’s bold without being bombastic, providing an urbane backdrop that somehow manages to make fellow diners appear more interesting than they might actually be. Though, in fairness, last night’s crowd genuinely were—the sort of animated, engaged company that transforms a meal into an occasion.
Our server, Keerthana, demonstrated that most elusive of hospitality virtues: she was present without being intrusive, knowledgeable without being pedantic. Her recommendations carried the weight of someone who actually tastes what she serves, and her timing throughout the evening was impeccable. In an industry where good service has become alarmingly rare, she reminded us what it looks like when done properly.
To the food: the whole roasted seabream arrived with a magnificent char, the flesh yielding and sweet beneath its chilli-spiked crust, accompanied by a vibrant tangle of purple slaw that provided both colour and clever counterpoint. This was confident cooking—the kind that doesn’t need to shout its accomplishments. The croquettes (I suspect these were the kitchen’s own creation) achieved that crucial textural balance between exterior crunch and molten interior, elevated by a judicious squeeze of charred lime.
Even the roasted cauliflower transcended its fashionable-vegetable status, arriving with enough char and seasoning to stand as a dish in its own right rather than virtuous afterthought.
The 2024 Bottega Pinot Grigio from delle Venize proved an astute pairing—crisp, clean, and sufficiently food-friendly to navigate from the richness of fried items to the delicacy of the seabream without losing its way.
Leicester Square Kitchen succeeds because it understands something fundamental: location is not destiny. While lesser establishments coast on proximity to theatres, this kitchen actually cooks. Combined with Keerthana’s exemplary service and a room that manages to feel both contemporary and comfortable, it offers something West End diners badly need—a genuine reason to arrive early rather than dash in for a pre-curtain necessity.
Rating: ★★★★☆
Worth returning for: The seabream, Keerthana’s service, the convivial atmosphereNote: Service charge discretionary at 12.5%—and in this case, earned
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