4 /5 DC: You visit the Devonshire when you can get a table rather than exactly when you want to eat, and we happily took a late 3pm lunch slot. Despite the time, the restaurant was buzzing. We were seated quickly and the service was friendly, if a little rushed at times. Our table was near the till in a tightly packed dining room, but the atmosphere remained pleasant and didn’t detract from the experience.
We started with a well-priced bottle of grower champagne, Georges Vesselle Grand Cru (£87), and ordered. The unlimited Parker House rolls were excellent, soft, warm and impossible to resist. The scallops had good flavour, though they arrived a little cooler than ideal, and the ribeye was tasty but not especially memorable. The beef cheek and Guinness suet pudding was a standout, rich, comforting and perfectly executed. We finished with a sticky toffee pudding that was truly outstanding.
Overall, it’s a place I would return to, ideally in the main grill room, and with minor refinements it could feel even more polished. Busy and popular, it delivers a strong experience despite the pace, and the food more than justifies a visit.