4 /5 Levi Dance: March 2025 - Roux at Skindles occupies a lovely spot on Mill Lane, Taplow right on the banks of the River Thames, with a terrace that makes the most of the riverside view.
The building’s history is interesting: the site of the old Skindles Hotel resurrected as a modern French-brasserie concept launched by the Roux family. Inside, the dining room is comfortable but refined — not over‐formal, yet clearly designed for quality. The cocktail bar upstairs adds a relaxed pre- or post-dinner element.
I arrived for dinner and was seated by a window overlooking the water. The ambience was quietly elegant: low murmurs of conversation, soft lighting, a gentle sense of occasion without being stiff.
The Food: Technique, Flavour & Consistency
What stands out at Roux at Skindles is its air of confident competence: dishes that show strong technique, well-balanced flavours, and a menu that honours French brasserie tradition while keeping things approachable.
Starters: I began with their on-menu “Normandy onion soup” (white wine cream sauce) — the onions well caramelised, the broth rich yet clean, garnished with a light crisp crouton. The layering of sweetness from the onion and depth from the cream was handled with care. Another starter, the “wild mushroom & pumpkin tarte fine with charred endive & rocket oil (v)” showed good restraint: the pastry just crisp, the mushroom and pumpkin filling combining earthiness and subtle sweetness, the endive’s char adding a slight bitterness that pulled the dish together.
Mains: I opted for the dry-aged Heritage beef striploin. The beef was seared properly, the interior showing a pleasing pink, juices intact. The horseradish cream underneath added a sharpness that cut through the richness of the meat without being intrusive.
As a vegetarian companion’s main we saw their “vegetarian burger – crispy pulled wild mushrooms, Stilton, spinach leaves, beef tomato & dill pickles” which likewise demonstrated that the kitchen isn’t just “adapting” vegetarian options but designing them with thought.
Desserts: I decided on the warm Valrhona Manjari dark chocolate fondant with apple sauce. The fondant arrived with a deliciously molten centre, the apple sauce giving brightness and lift — not too sweet, not overly rich, just right. The balance was on point. In another dessert, the vanilla crème brûlée with poached rhubarb & strawberry sorbet (v) was elegantly done.
Throughout the meal, each dish arrived in good time. The bread and butter starters were fresh, the sauces well-seasoned. One review noted: “A meal at Roux at Skindles impresses in its range of technically accomplished dishes".
Service & Value
The service matched the cooking in tone: professional, attentive, friendly, but never hovering. My server was well-versed in the menu (able to explain the vegetarian burger, the specials board, and the wine pairing without faltering).
The value is particularly noteworthy: while this is clearly a high-end brasserie, many dishes feel well priced for the quality and location. For example, menus in the ~£33.50 range for three courses are offered.
Minor point: parking and access by car might be less seamless than a city centre venue — but the setting compensates.
Final Verdict:
Roux at Skindles doesn’t attempt to dazzle with gimmicks; instead, it quietly excels. For me, it hits nearly all the right notes: high quality, thoughtful execution, welcoming ambience, genuine value.
Food: 8.5/10 — Strong technique, very good flavours, excellent vegetarian consideration.
Service: 8.5/10 — Polished, friendly, comfortable.
Ambience: 8/10— Beautiful riverside setting, elevated brasserie style without stiffness.
Overall: 8.3/10
If you’re looking for a special meal in the Thames-valley area that balances sophistication with ease, Roux at Skindles is a very fine choice.
