Holy crust pizza - Harrow
H Sunil “Sunhill” Best pizzas in the area at the moment.
5 /5 FHMC Fabian Hirose - Fabian Hirose Management Consulting Ltd: At 19 Numara Bos Cirrik II, the defining gesture is not hospitality or atmosphere, but heat. Charcoal sets the tempo here, and everything else adjusts around it.
The room carries the physical signs of that choice. Smoke drifts, bread is passed hot and pliable, and plates arrive with residual crackle. Tables are close because space is secondary to throughput. Nothing is arranged to slow the body down. The dining area is a place built for eating, not for lingering.
Food arrives in volume and without apology. Flatbread comes first, toasted directly over the grill, marked by smoke and meat juices, and soft enough to tear continuously. It is eaten constantly, not as a side but as a tool. The Adana kebab follows, heavy and dense; the mince is bound by fat and spice, with heat present but steady. Chicken shish is cooked hard over fire, charred on the outside and improbably tender within, the marinade penetrating rather than coating. Mixed grills extend the same logic, favouring scale over selectivity and often surpassing appetite.
The accompaniments sharpen rather than decorate. Onion, dressed with sumac and grilled, softened with pomegranate, yoghurt, and pickles, appears and reappears, cutting through fat and heat. These are not gestures of generosity. They are necessary counterweights.
This is Turkish ocakbaşı cooking that prioritises force, fat, and repetition over refinement. The food expects hands, appetite, and decisiveness. It does not aim for balance in isolation but for the physical satisfaction that comes from sustained eating.
19 Numara Bos Cirrik II holds its place in London by remaining unapologetically heavy. In a city increasingly inclined to lighten and polish its traditions, this restaurant keeps its mass, and in doing so, its authority.
